Saturday, 13 March 2010

The Islands Of Skomer And Skokholm 13/03/2010

After just over a 2 hour drive I was paddling out of Martin's Haven into a rather chilly northerly breeze with a cloudy overcast sky, not what was forecast but it was good to be back in Pembrokeshire.

Rounding Wooltack Point, Skomer Island comes fully into view and crossing a rather sedate Jack Sound and Little sound I see Skokholm Island, the second of today's objectives through the gap between Midland Isle and Skomer.

Paddling past North Haven and along the North coast of Skomer, there are large numbers of Guillemots and Razorbills on the cliffs in the air and on the water.

As I approach the Garland Stone, the clouds are beginning to break up and as usual the water becomes a little confused.

The gap between the Garland Stone and Skomer, as is usually the case, is a bit interesting, but with the tide in my favour it makes easy paddling.

There are even larger numbers of birds along the NW side of Skomer, but as yet no sign of any puffins.

Looking up at the cliffs as I paddle into the Bull Hole it is already looking pretty congested on the small ledges where the birds will rear their young over the next few weeks.

At the headland of the Table the conditions livened up a bit, ideal to try out the camera mounted on the deck bag, not too bad a result.

Paddling around Skomer Head, which today is unusually calm, Skokolm Island once again comes into view. There is also an arch at the top of the cliff before I reach the Basin.

As I paddle towards the Wick I pass two rowing boats heading in the opposite direction, we exchange greetings and a brief chat on how good the weather is. The Wick is pretty busy with birds and I see my first Puffin of the year all on his lonesome.

I approached the Mew Stone with slight apprehension as it has been a bit lively in the past, but today it is flat calm.
I even have plenty of time to photograph an Oystercatcher and a Shag, who seem to enjoy posing for me.

I stop for a drink and a snack in the sheltered water of South Haven before paddling southward across Broad Sound to Skokholm.

After about half an hour's paddle I reach the red sandstone cliffs of Skokholm unlike the volcanic rock of Skomer. Looking back at Skomer, a bank of black cloud is slowly approaching which looks a bit ominous.
Paddling SW and around Quarry Point, the island's lighthouse soon comes into view.

The lighthouse was built in 1916 to form the landward corner of a triangle of lights, the other 2 being the Smalls and South Bishop keeping ships clear of this particular treacherous stretch of coastline and into Milford Haven or into the Bristol Channel.

After the lighthouse was built a donkey was used to pull the trucks carrying supplies from the jetty to the light. He seemed to know when a delivery was due and would go AWOL with the keepers searching for hours for him, on any other day he would come to the keepers straight away!

The donkey was replaced by a pony who also did it's best to upset proceedings, he in turn was replaced by a tractor which in turn was replaced by a helicopter.

As I paddle along the sheltered south coast of Skokholm with it's various shades of different coloured rock it could easily have been a Summer's day as I was well protected from the northerly wind.I was going to paddle up to the landing jetty in Hog Bay but there were numerous seals hauled out enjoying the sun before the incoming tide reached them so I carried on northward back across Broad Sound.As I start to paddle back toward Skomer the sun disappears into the cloud and looking back at Skokholm I see the edge of the cloud slowly blocking out the blue sky.

Reaching South Haven on Skomer I am greeted by a Fulmar floating on his own away from the noise and chaos on the nearby cliffs.

Paddling out of South Haven there is a chance for me to explore some of the inlets in the Neck which at the moment are pretty bird free but in a few weeks the inlets will become more crowded.

The tide is still too low to paddle into the arch which pierces the Neck so I will have to paddle up through Jack Sound and sample the delights of it's tide race.

The video seemed to work well again as I paddled northward through Jack Sound where I bump into 2 other sea kayakers also enjoying the delights of Jack Sound.

The above video is the stretch of water between Tusker Rock and the mainland where the standing waves were starting to build up helped by the wind against the tide.

I know it is cheating slightly but the above photos are taken from the video but they have come out pretty well.After a bit of a play in Jack Sound it is only a short paddle back to a still deserted Martin's Haven to end a cracking day's paddle.

A paddle of nearly 14 nautical miles (approx 26km) through a mixture of flat calm seas and fast tide races with plenty of bird life and also the first Puffin of the year, in fact 6 in total at various locations around the 2 islands, in a few weeks there will be 1000s more, I will have to return soon.


Saturday, 6 March 2010

Flat Holm Island 06/03/2010

With a mate's stag do later in the day I thought it wise to paddle today rather than leave it till tomorrow where I might be slightly the worse for wear!

Launching from the Sully YC slipway I paddled on a course to Steep Holm and let the last of the flood tide take me down to my intended target of Flat Holm which, at the moment, was obscured from view by Sully Island.

On reaching the Lavernock Spit South Cardinal Buoy I could see the tide was just starting to ebb. I would have to speed up a touch to get to Flat Holm before the tide flow became to strong against me.

Nearing Flat Holm I was passed by the MSC Lea, a 217 metre container ship on its way to Antwerp after leaving Avonmouth just up the Bristol Channel.

After ferry gliding across the last few hundred yards to the island, I could now have a breather in the calm water below the Farmhouse and Well Batteries 2 of the 4 disused gun emplacements built in the 1860s as part of the Palmerston Forts (Follies) to guard against the threat of invasion from the French.

They were known as Follies as they were never used in anger, well not against the French. The island was re-armed during World War 2.

Paddling under the lighthouse I catch a glimpse of some of the island's wildlife, as well as the countless Gulls constantly squawking and hovering overhead, I spot the island's goat which didn't look in the best condition. By the lighthouse there is another of Flat Holm's emplacements.

Due to numerous shipwrecks and after 60 soldiers drowned when their vessel sank in 1736 the first lighthouse was built and so there has been a light on Flat Holm since 1737.

Paddling up the east side of the island I encounter a bit of adverse tide, but passing the jetties the tide starts to run in my favour and is starting to flow at quite a rate through the small gap between Castle Rock and the island.


After a bit of a play in the fast flowing water I have a short break by the arch on the island next to Castle Rock before setting on my way back to the mainland. I set a course quite a way ahead of the Wolves North Cardinal Buoy and let the ever increasing tide flow do most of the work for me.

I am swept past the Wolves Buoy named after the Wolves rock and not the football team, even though the colours are the same. The rock which becomes exposed on low spring tides and has claimed quite a few ships over the years.

I take one last look at Flat Holm and the Wolves Buoy before starting on my easy paddle back to Sully Island.

I decided to paddle back through Sully Sound and the tide was just right to take some photos of the remains of the shipwreck on Sully Island.

It is only a short paddle back to the slipway where on landing I look back at Sully Island in the foreground with Flat Holm on the left and Steep Holm on the right.


A paddle of 9 nautical miles in yet again almost perfect conditions. A great way to start the day. Lets hope the rest of the day goes as well as I sample the delights of Cardiff City Centre after dark!