Like the classic 1978 surfing film Big Wednesday the surf has been building all week and today seemed to be the pinnacle of the week's increasing wind and swell.
Venturing out in the Juice there were some very large and powerful waves coming through which made for an interesting paddle out.
Once out past the break it also made for some interesting take offs and some pretty fast rides.
The only bad point was after enjoying a long ride I then had to endure another paddle back out through the white stuff.
Still it was worth the effort though sometimes it was like being in a washing machine on the fast cycle, good rolling practice though.
Thanks again to the wife Tracy who got some great shots today considering I was so far out. A great surf, and all that salt has worked up a bit of a thirst, a few cold Guiness could be on the cards!
1 comment:
Oh yes it was big!
I got a really distant blury video of you from the cliff path, you are bouncing around all over the place!
Wish I was there now, looks like a nice week ahead, cold but clear
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